About me

Mountains, Soul & Rock´n Roll

Thomas Huber, UIAGM Mountain Guide, the older brother of the two Huberbuam, has dedicated his life to alpinism. Together with his brother Alexander, they form one of today’s most capable and successful rope parties.

His childlike curiosity has always been prompting him to discover the unknown in the mountains all over the world. Whether it is speed climbing on the steepest walls, alpinism on the most difficult peaks, or expeditions in extreme regions - Thomas is looking for the challenge and takes it up with the ambition of an athlete.

Rise and fall, set-backs and successes, Thomas got to experience it all in the mountains. His strong, indomitable spirit has learned that in order to find the key to success, he must accept set-backs on his crazy vertical journeys. He is a father of three children and always aware of his responsibility for his family.

Besides climbing mountains, Thomas entertains a large audience with his adventures - even after more than a 1000 intense, funny and passionate slide shows. With his brother Alexander, Thomas has authored several books and is the protagonist of several movies. He also is a much-appreciated guest in talk shows.

How it all began…

It all began in a normal Bavarian village: Palling. On a farm, there are 2 cheeky boys, a little girl, and mom and dad, who love the mountains. They are the Hubers, or rather, in Bavarian tradition, »the Riedls«, as Riedl is the name of the farm.

Thomas senior, the patriarch, is often in the mountains with fellow alpinists. He experienced many mountain adventures - from Berchtesgaden to the Mont Blanc and Denali. Even today, well past 70, he is regularly climbing up to 5.10.

The Riedlbuam (Riedl-Boys) are motivated! From an early age, they start exploring the mountains during ski tours in the Western Alps, and undertake their first rock climbs with their dad. It won’t take long before they are a close-knit team in the mountains. At the beginning, the apple tree in the garden will have to do - here they practice rope maneuvers. They start climbing in the loose quarry just outside Palling, and go bouldering on the walls of the local castle.

After that, the brothers go on their first trip without their dad, to the Wilder Kaiser in Tyrol. They enter the realm of 5.10 and above. Soon, repeating existing climbs becomes boring. It lacks the unknown, the excitement, and the element of discovery.

Their first first ascent, Rauhnachtstanz on the south face of Wagendrischlhorn becomes the foundation of their climbing lives. The unknown of the vertical world, the first ascent, it became their biggest motivation and has since remained their true passion. At the local crag, Karlstein, they establish countless new routes in a short time, and their climbing ability keeps improving. Soon, they are known beyond Palling, and their name changes from Riedlbuam to Huberbuam

The name stands for difficult first ascents and wild stories from their explorations of the mountains…

They share their passion without compromise, and even if they may seem different at first sight, they both share the name Huberbuam and what it stands for. They are a perfect team on the hardest mountains.

Again and again, Thomas has to deal with serious injuries that hinder his progress as an athlete. Because of these set-backs, he develops a strong will. Giving up is out of question. Later in his life, he discovers sky diving and tries to combine it with climbing: After a difficult ascent, the parachute comes in and provides a quick descent.

Music is another way for him to express himself. He is the lead singer of the punk rock band Plastic Surgery Disaster. Despite is wild spirit, Thomas appreciates nothing more than finding peace at home with his family. He lives in Berchtesgaden. He is married to Marion and has two sons and a daughter: Elias, Amadeus, and Philomea.



Vita

1966

November 18, 1966 - my date of birth. I am born in Palling/Bavaria.

»Viele Wege führen zu Gott, einer davon über den Berg«. / »There are many ways to God - One leads over the mountains«. I wrote that German saying in the my first and only route logbook. I took the saying from my dad.

1978

My first climb in Berchtesagaden: Untersberg, South Face (III), with my dad.

1979

Hörndlwand, Sockel, Merkelriss (IV), Chiemgau

1980

3. Sellaturm, Vinatzer (V), Sella, Dolomites

1981

Schleierkante (V), Pala-Dolomites

1982

Schüsselkarspitze, east face, Spindlerführe (V), Wetterstein

1983

Things get going! Forst winter training, pull-ups and training on the »Steiner Burgmauer«

Karlspitz, east face, Göttner (6+), Kaiser. My first redpoint ascent.

Fleischbankpfeiler, Rebitschrisse (6/A1). My entry route to the Traunsteiner Jungmannschaft.

Fleischbankpfeiler, Pumprisse (7), Kaiser

Großglockner, north face, 65°, Alps

In my first year of climbing, I do over 50 alpine routes.

1984

Wagendrischelhorn, south face, Rauhnachtstanz (VI+) – our first first ascent.

Dru Westwand, American Direkt (VII), Chamonix, France

1985

First redpoint ascent of Blaue Lagune (VIII+), Wendenstöcke, Switzerland

Marmolada, South Face, Weg durch den Fisch (VII/A1), Dolomites

1986

First ascent of Utopia (VIII+), Wartstein an der Reiteralm Northern aspect, Berchtesgaden Alps

1987

High school graduation

1988

First ascent of Vom Winde Verweht (X-) on Scharnstein, Reiteralm norther aspect, Berchtesgaden Alps. For us, this is the first alpine route rated X-.

1989

First ascent of Scaramouche (X-), Hoher Göll, west face, Berchtesgaden Alps

1990

First ascent of Violent Femme (X/8b) in Karlstein. My first 8b!

1991

Military service Bad Reichenhall, Hochgebirgszug

Then withdrawal from service: A slipped disc, complete stop of all sports activites, surgery and then recovery

1992

Studies at the TU München, Sports diploma

Mountain guide exam passed

Prinzess and the Hero (X+/8b+), Karlstein

1993

Mercy Street (X+/8b+), Schleier Wasserfall

1994

First ascent and first redpoint ascent of The End of Silence (10+), Feuerhorn, Berchtesgadener Alpen. This route is part of the alpine Trilogy together with Silbergeier and Kaisers neue Kleider.

1995

2. ascent of Alexander’s route Shogun (XI-/8c), Karlstein

cruciate ligament rupture, surgery and recovery

1996

I drop out of university with the decision »I become a professional alpinist.«

First visit in Yosemite: first free ascent of the Salathé (5.13c) along the original line, El Capitan

1997

First aid climbs – The Shield (A3), Mescalito (A3) and Gulf Stream (A4) – on El Capitan, Yosemite, as a preparation for the Pakistan expedition

First ascent on the west face of Latok II (7.108m), Zeringmosong (VII/ A3), Karakoram, Pakistan, together with brother Alexander, Toni Gutsch, Conrad Anker

First professional public slideshows with »Latok – The Wall«

1998

First ascent of El Niño (5.13c) on El Capitan, Yosemite and thus the first redpoint ascent of the North America Wall

Redpoint ascent of Free Rider (5.13a) in 15:25 hours and thus the first free ascent of an El Cap route in a day. On both ascents, I climb with Alexander.

1999

I become a father. Elias, our son with my partner Marion.

Failure on an expedition to the Ogre (7.285 m), Karakoram, Pakistan with brother Alexander, Jan Mersch, Toni Gutsch. On this expedition Alexander and I climb Latok IV.

Second cruciate ligament rupture on the same knee, surgery and then recovery.

Our first book, »The Wall«, is published.

2000

First ascent of Shiva´s Line (VII/A4) on Shivling (6.543m) with Iwan Wolf, Garwahl Himal, India

Luxation of the elbow – 4 weeks prior to our planned US trip.

First ascent of Golden Gate (5.13b) on El Capitan, Yosemite, together with Alexander

Piolet D´Or: der golden ice axe for Shiva`s Line. The most important award in alpinism.

2001

My third expedition to the same base camp on the Uzun-Bracc-Glacier, Pakistan, Karakoram

First ascent of the Ogre III (6.870m) along the South Pillar (VIII/A2)

Second ascent of the Ogre (7.285m) along the South Pillar (VIII/A2)

2002

Amadeus is born, our second son.

2. ascent of the route Capsico (7/A2) on Arwa Spire, Garwahl Himal, India with Alexander und Peter Anzenberger

2003

First repetition of Adrenalin (XI/8c+), Karlstein

First redpoint ascent of the Zodiac (5.13d), El Capitan, together with Alexander

2004

Speed record of the Zodiac in 1:51:34, 600 meters, El Capitan, Yosemite, together with Alexander.

2005

Patagonia: Cerro Standhardt (Festerville), Punta Herron (Spigolo del Bimbi), Torre Egger (Espejo del Viento-Erstbegehung), Traverse (VII+/90°) with Andi Schnarf

Beginning of the production of »To The Limit«

Record attempt at speed climbing the Nose (5.9/A2), El Capitan. The record is at 2 hours 48 minutes. Normal parties take 3 to 4 days. Shortly before our attempt at the record Alexander falls to the ground from twenty meters and we have to postpone our plans.

I start parachuting in spring. 3 month later, I do my first base jump on the Yellow Ocean in Lauterbrunnen - my legs have never shaken like that before!

2006

Patagonia: Shooting of the movie »To The Limit«, with no success worth mentioning.

Second attempt at breaking the speed record of 2:48:55 hours on the Nose, again while shooting the movie »To The Limit«. While going for the record I take a fall at the so called Groove and get injured. We fail again.

My wedding: I marry Marion, now it’s official!

Alexander und I are awarded the Bayrischen Sportpreis (»Bavarian sports award«) as »Botschafter des Bayrischen Sports« (»Bavarian sports ambassadors«).

Tre Cime Project: 3 routes und 2 BASE jumps together with Dean Potter. First route: Ötzi trifft Yeti (VIII+) on Cima Piccola, team redpoint at night. First jump from Cima Piccola as it gets light. 2. route: Phantom der Zinne (IX+) on Cima Grande, team redpoint, then BASE jump. 3. route: the Swiss Route (IX-) on Cima Ovest.During a fall I get injured on the first pitch. I tear a tendon. We failed. Surgery and three months of recovery.

2007

Philomea is born, our third child and a girl.

The movie »To The Limit« is a great success despite our failure to break the record.

Award of Bayrischer Filmpreis for the »Best Documentary«

The Nose-Record is broken. Alexander and I climb the 1.000 meters of granite in 2 hours 45 minutes und 45 seconds, El Capitan, Yosemite

Second attempt on the Tre Cime Project in the Dolomites. While training I had a hard landing in the talus below Cima Grande, which put an end to the season again. Compartment syndrome on my left thigh, surgery and recovery.

2008

First ascent of the Silla West Face, El Bastardo (VII/A2) in Patagonia with Mario Walder, Stefan Siegrist and Alexander

Cerro Standhardt, Festerville (VII+) with Mario Walder and Peter Ordner

Another attempt at the Tre Cime Project. Success this time! After 22 hours and over 50 pitches of up to 5.12+ I reach my goal, the summit of Cima Piccola.

Successful start and cooperation with the brand Adidas.

Expedition to Antarctica, Queen Maudland. Holtanna West face, Eiszeit (VII+/A3), Holtanna north buttress, Skywalk (VI), Ulvetanna west buttress, The Sound of Silence (VII+/A2) with Stefan Siegrist, Alexander and Max Reichel (Camera)

Film »Eiszeit«

2009

Book »Eiszeit«, coffee table book about our Antarctica expedition in 2008.

Expedition to Pakistan, Karakoram, Nameless Tower. First redpoint ascent of Eternal Flame (5.13a) with Alexander, Mario Walder und Franz Hinterbrandner (Camera)

Film »Eternal Flame«

2010

Ferrero produces the ad for »Milchschnitte« with us in Bariloche – as successors of the Klitschko-Brothers.

Alexander and I climb on Stoanmandl on the Loferer Steinplatte (X/8b) und begin the project Karma.

2011

Our planned trip to Patagonia has to be canceled on short notice. A kidney cancer is suspected and I get surgery. I am super lucky: the tumour is bening! Life is good! My luckiest moment!

Attempt at redpointing Karma (XI-), Loferer Steinplatte. Unfortunately I am not totally fit after the surgery. The story »Karma« is filmed as a 3D documentary.

2012

Baffin Island, Mount Asgrad, South Tower, first free ascent of Bavarian Direct (X-/8a+) along the Bayrische Diretissima with a Team Free Ascent. Together with Alexander and Mario Walder as well as Max Reichel and Franz Hinterbrandner (both camera)

Film »Bavarian Direct«. The whole story is also available as a Magalog, Adidas-Outdoor.

2013

Patagonia, Fitz Roy, North face along the Tehuelche (VIII/A0) with Mario Walder

Cerro Standhardt (for a third time), Festerville (VII+), with Much Mayr, Hansjörg Auer, Mario Walder and then retreat in a storm.

End of July I am back in Patagonia with Stefan Siegrist and Dani Arnold. Together with Tibu Villavicencio we climb the west face, Ferrari, of Cerro Torre for it’s third winter ascent.

Tick List

1984
BERCHTESGADEN ALPS
Rauhnachtstanz, VI+ – First ascent, redpoint
1986
BERCHTESGADEN ALPS
Utopia,VIII+ – First ascent, redpoint
1988
BERCHTESGADEN ALPS
Vom Winde Verweht, X- – First ascent, redpoint
1989
BERCHTESGADEN ALPS
Scaramouche, X- – First ascent, redpoint
1990
Karlstein
Violent Femme, X – First ascent, redpoint
1993
Karlstein
Prinzess and the Hero, X+ – Second redpoint ascent
1994
BERCHTESGADEN ALPS, Feuerhorn
End of Silence, X+ – First ascent, redpoint
1995
Karlstein
Shogun, XI- – Second redpoint ascent
1997
LATOK II (7.108 M), SW-FACE
Zeringmosong, VII/A3 – First ascent
1998
El Capitan, Yosemite
El Nino, 5.13.c – First ascent, redpoint
2000
Shivling (6.543 M)
Shiva´s Line, VII/A4 – First ascent
El Capitan, Yosemite
Golden Gate, 5.13b – First ascent, redpoint
2001
Ogre III (6.870 M)
South pillar, VIII/A2 – First ascent
Ogre (7.285 M)
South east pillar, VIII/A2 – Second ascent
2003
Karlstein
Adrelanin, XI – Second redpoint ascent
El Capitan, Yosemite
Zodiac, 5.13d – First redpoint ascent
Schleier Wasserfall
Dolphins, XI- – First ascent, redpoint
2004
El Capitan, Yosemite
Zodiac, 5.12 a/A2, Speed record in 1:51:34 hours
2005
Patagonia
Traverse Cerro Standhart, Punta Heron, Torre Egger, VII+/90°
2007
El Capitan, Yosemite
Nose, 5.12a/A2 – Speed record in 2:45:45 hours
2008
PATAGONIA, LA SILLA WEST FACE
El Bastardo, VII/A2 – First ascent
ITALY, SOUTH TYROL
»Tre Cime – Base & Climb«: Alpenliebe (IX), Basejump, Phantom der Zinne (IX+), Basejump, Ötzi trifft Jeti (VIII+) – Redpoint in 22 hours
ANTARKTIS, HOLTANNA WEST FACE
Eiszeit, VII+/A3 – First ascent
ANTARKTIS, ULVETANNA WEST BUTTRESS
Sound of Silence, VII+/A2 – First ascent
2009
NAMELESSTOWER, KARAKORAM
Eternal Flame, IX+ – First redpoint ascent
2010
Loferer Steinplatte
Stoamandl, X – First redpoint ascent
2012
Mount Asgard, Baffin Island
Bavarian Direct, X- – First redpoint ascent
2013
Cerro Torre (3.128 M)
West face/Ferrari, V/90° – Third winter ascent

Films, Books & Co.

Books

Der Weg nach draußen –
Aus der Halle ins Gebirge

Hardcover, 192 pages

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Die Angst, dein bester Freund

Paperback, 192 pages

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Eiszeit – Expedition Antarktis

Coffee-table book, 160 pages

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Free Solo

Paperback, 208 pages

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Der Berg in mir

Paperback, 320 pages

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Drei Zinnen

Coffee-table book, 156 pages

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Ogre

Coffee-table book, 176 pages

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Yosemite

Coffee-table book, 176 pages

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The Wall

Coffee-Table Book, 128 pages

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Books in our Online-Shop

 

Films

Bavarian Direct – Abenteuer am Ende der Welt

DVD (2013), Duration: 75 minutes

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Eternal Flame - Auf den Spuren von Idolen

DVD (2009), Duration: 70 minutes

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Eiszeit – Reflexion einer Expedition

DVD (2008), Duration: 52 minutes

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Am Limit

DVD (2007), Duration: 96 minutes

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Free Solo

DVD (2007), Duration: 53 minutes

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Getschooo !

DVD (2007), Duration: 75 minutes

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The Centre of the Universe

DVD (2005), Duration: 54 minutes

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Films in our Online-Shop

10 Questions

How would you describe yourself?
As an enthusiastic dreamer, who is passionately optimistic.

How would you describe your brother?
As a determined and concentrated person who rarely leaves something to chance.

How does a perfect day look for you?
Climbing in the Endstal in the morning, friction is perfect, swimming in the Königssee-Lake with my family in the afternoon, barbecue in the evening in the garden with a cool Berchtesgaden beer.

Who would you like to have met, or to still meet?
Johnny Cash … people that have a story.

What does Home mean to you?
A place of grounding, a source of energy, a place of peace.

What do the mountains mean to you?
Desire.

What was your most beautiful alpine experience so far?
Every experience is special in it’s own way, be it the first ascent of »Rauhnachtstanz«, »End of Silence«, or the Shivling, the Ogre, or the Tre Cime. In general I would say: The more you put in, the more you get from it.

What was your worst experience in the mountains?
The worst would be losing a partner, I had the  great luck so far of not having to experience that. Everything else, the failures, the injuries, they are relative because they are an inherent part of mountaineering.

Who are your role models?
Everyone who is passionate and authentic is a role model for me.

What is your biggest dream?
Standing on a summit as an old man with my wife and children. My dad gets to enjoy this dream today.

What do you think is the meaning of life?
To experience moments of happiness, to share them with others, and to find love.

Interviews

Martin Morcinek about Thomas Huber



The Huberbuam’s Secret

By Martin Morcinek


What is it that an extreme alpinist experiences in the mountains? How does it feel when your existence is hanging on your finger tips? A band named »Plastic Surgery Disaster« could provide us with answers. Lead singer: Thomas Huber, one of the »Huberbuam«.

If it’s true that music is a key to the soul, and that with said key it’s possible to retrace thoughts and feelings, sports scientists, coaches and psychologists possibly have a once in a lifetime opportunity:»Plastic Surgery Disaster«, a live band thus far only known among insiders, hailing from Berchtesgaden, Bavaria, releases its first album.It’s called »Endless« and contains an impressive line-up of motivating songs with names like »No«, »Ghost«, or »Fear«. For fans of honest, hand-made stoner rock, this album is a return to their roots. For rock climbers, this album will certainly provide enough music for a fully motivated drive to the next rock wall. And that is not all of it.

»Plastic Surgery Disaster« will in certainly receive attention far beyond Berchtesgaden because of their lead singer, Thomas Huber. He’s the older brother of Alexander, which means he’s one half of the wild, strong Bavarian rock climbing phenomenon known as the »Huberbuam«. As speed climbers and alpinists the brothers are well known for their achievements on rock, and their appearances in shows and movies - they have the lead role in documentaries like Pepe Danquart’s »To The Limit« or the recent »Bavarian Direct«.

The recurring theme there is »the passion for the mountains as a metaphor for life«, here it is about music: Thomas Huber sings, and there can be no doubt Plastic Surgery Disaster is his band. The lyrics are his, he’s written every single line. Does this debut album provide insight in the psyche of a extreme mountaineer? As far as the music goes, its style could well seem familiar to the public. Some of »I hate this song«, one of the nine »Endless« songs, was played on an advertisement with the Huberbuam - in that case the idea probably was to provide earthy contrast to the milky, sweet bars in the advertisement.

»Endless« confirms the suspicion: This is the music of someone with boundless energy and power. Thomas Huber sings with a voice that is used to sound far up a valley, cheer from the summit, or holler rope commands into the abyss. He does this with a force that grew in extreme weather conditions, on blank rock walls and during difficult expeditions.

With his work as the figure-head and lead singer of »Plastic Surgery Disaster«, he provides us with the opportunity to take part in his inner world, and to find out more about the energy that has taken him to the most remote places on Earth and then up the steepest and coldest peaks.

»Don’t fuck around now«

All in all, this seems like a rather remarkable move. A world famous alpinist, driven by his search for adventure, his ambition and his life experience, grabs the microphone - after having reached virtually everything in the world of climbing - in order to provide room for his musical side on stage.
Nothing special for Thomas though: Extreme alpinism and singing in a band have much in common, he explains. »What I experience on a steep face, I also find in music.« Both disciplines, he says, are about passion. »I truly love both«.
On his expedition to the world of music, Thomas can rely on old friends. His brother Alexander, usually the more level-headed of the two, is not among them. On the e-guitars of Plastic Surgery Disaster, men like Manfred Rödel or Peter Schweiger build steep walls with wild, cut-off pillars. Andi Brandner provides a far-reaching, deep dynamical belay with the bass, while Wolfgang Seiberl on the drums leads tricky edges and lines. In the center of it, Thomas goes wild.

A man who knows no doubts

On Endless, they put up a sort of musical multi-pitch climb together. It could have its very own effect on the quickly growing scene of young boulder- and gym climbers. »It’s important to us to do our own thing.« says Huber. That is direct and honest. It’s about the music. The band exclusively plays its own songs. And only those they like. Looking for covers and softer songs will be in vain.

Thomas sings in English, like the bands that influenced him the most, Nirvana for example, and especially Kyuss. »I love Stoner Rock, the bluesy, heavy madness!«, he admits. It could well be that he sparks the curiosity to explore the now far-away summits of punk and heavy rock of some younger rock climbing fans. They lie in the late seventies and eighties of the last century, which means that some of it happened more than 30 years ago.

Is that enough for a comeback? In any case, Endless makes it possible that somewhere, the next big climbing talent joins the league of Wolfgang Güllich, Kurt Albert, Chris Sharma, or Adam Ondra, while listening to the motivating music of Plastic Surgery Diasaster.

»We just do it«

Indeed, the band got it’s unusual name from a rock climb. Even if the older member of the scene will rather think of an influental album from the high times of US punk rock. there is actually a direct link between the two. »In the early days, I spend a lot of time on El Capitan.«, explains Thomas, and means the adventures on a 1000-meter-tall granite wall of a famous rock giant in Yosemite Valley, California. It’s the mecca of rock climbing. Here, the Huberbuam have become immortal with their speed records.»The routes there have crazy names like ‘Bad to the Bone’ or ‘Zenyatta Mondatta’, they are often references to music.« One of the routes was named after the 1982 Dead Kennedys album »Plastic Surgery Disaster« by the first ascent. For Thomas and his bandmates these roots really mean something: » The band name is a reminder that we do not want to please. We just do it. We are the opposite of the pretty appearances of the world of pop.«

»Don’t be afraid of Life«

Is that his recipe for success? Is this the source of raw power that pushes him into the mountains, and makes him get rid of his shirt on almost every concert? As a top alpinist, Thomas has achieved virtually everything a successful alpinist could wish for - spectacular first ascents, summits, the Piolet d’Or, the most important award in alpinism, and most importantly a happy, safe return to his family. What is it that makes Thomas climb on stage with angry, harsh pieces like »Prison«, »Black Road«, or »Endless«? And why is his brother Alexander not singing with him?»I am a machine. Once I get going, I go.«, says Thomas in Danquart’s documentary »To the Limit«. This is an important trait of his personality. In »No«, the third song of the album, it goes: » I have the courage to say no«. Thomas interprets this as a positive thing: »The No is the first step towards a real yes, which is why it is so important.« Honesty towards yourself as a way for a satisfying life? Or, as they say on their slideshows: » The source that is at the beginning of everything we do is the simple joy and passion of creating.«

»A ton of adrenaline«

Translated to music, Thomas explains it like this: »Be it on a mountain or a stage, you dive into it, you no longer think, you just execute. That is the flow effect, during which a ton of adrenaline is released.« His brother Alexander, the rational physics graduate, is looking for answers in different areas of life. For Thomas on the other hand, both - singing and climbing - feed from the same source of energy: The desire for adventure, paired with the courage and the freedom to give in to this desire.

But maybe, it is not that complicated after all. Maybe the secret of the »Huberbuam« is just that they do what they like to do. Just as they like it. For less adventurous people far from the mountains, »Plastic Surgery Disaster« offers a unique opportunity to put a tiny bit of Huber’s energy into the own stereo - and then turn up the volume on the drive towards new goals.

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JOHANNA STOECKL INTERVIEWS THE HUBERBUAM



»WE ARE LIVING FOSSILS«

Rock climbers Thomas (46) and Alexander (44) form the probably most famous rope party of our time. The Huberbuam - this is the name under which the brothers are best known - have been successful for over thirty years. They set milestones with solo ascents and with other partners as well. In summer 2012, the Huberbuam were successful yet again: They did the first free ascent of the 1000-meter-south-face of Mount Asgard on Baffin Island. A camera team accompanied the two brothers. The movie they made can be purchased online. Johanna Stöckl talked to the friendly mountaineers. A conversation about getting old, losing power, fear of what lies ahead, vision and long hair as a trade mark.


Thomas, at what age did you reach the apex of your climbing abilities?

THOMAS:
That’s a tough question, because the stuff that we do cannot be reduced to a single discipline. As far as rock climbing goes, the hardest thing I’ve climbed - grade-wise - was an 8c+(5.14c).
And I was already 35 then. Before that, I was often stopped by injuries. When I was 21, I had a slipped disk - that alone set me back an entire year at least.
For me, or rather for us, climbing was always a mixture of alpinism and sport climbing, and thus I never really reached the apex. I think that if I trained a bit more, I could still climb 8c+ today. Maybe even a little harder? Compared to twenty years ago, the top level lies somewhere entirely different. As far as alpinism is concerned, the highlight of my life was probably in 2001, with the first ascent of Ogre III and, two weeks later, the second ascent of the Ogre. Or maybe in 1997 on the Latok II south face or on Mount Asgard in 2012? Every big success was a highlight in my climbing life, because I gave 110% every time.

What was - in retrospect - your biggest climbing achievement?


ALEXANDER:
As a sport climber, I had the highest level in 1994, no doubt. With Weiße Rose, I became the first person to climb 5.15a. Even if I did it again in 1996 with Open Air, I was stronger overall two years before. (Laughs) After that, things went downhill. One reason certainly was my age, at 28, you no longer have the same power potential, and another reason was, that I focused on different things after that. I wanted to use my free climbing skills on the world’s big walls. This is what I’m still doing now. Choosing a »biggest« achievement in such a wide field of activities is impossible for me. If I can list more than one highlight, then I would say climbing 5.15 sport, the west face of the seven-thousand-meter-peak Latok II, the free ascent of the Direttissima, the free routes on El Capitan and those through the big roof on Cima Ovest, and at the end the first redpoint ascent of Eternal Flame. I can’t leave even one out, because each one is so different from the other.

Thomas, in 2011 you were diagnosed with a benign renal tumor, which was removed. It must be special to be able to go on expeditions again. Did this event have an influence on you?

THOMAS:
It gave me a lot of strength, and put everything in my life into perspective. What’s a summit compared to a life? Since then, I see everything a bit different, I am more relaxed indeed. I accept failures as parts of life and they help me to be motivated to take the next step. You know when you stood in front of that sort of abyss, and then have the luck that I had, the only thing you can really say is: Life is simply beautiful, and I am privileged to enjoy as an alpinist.

Alexander, when you see today’s generation of climbers, like David Lama, or Adam Ondra, what do you feel? Admiration? Nostalgia? Happiness?

ALEXANDER:
Mostly, I have a lot of respect. Of course, I would enjoy pulling down like the kids today. But I’ve had my time, and I am more than happy about what I had: a really awesome time!
I am especially happy that climbing is still evolving and has not gone into a cul-de-sack. The only way for a sport to stay interesting is when there is a way forward. The mountains will offer challenges for many generations to come. I am happy about everything I can still witness.

Being a »Huberbua« (»Huber kid«) at the age of 44 and 46 respectively must be quite nice, no? Does your name provide some sort of eternal youth?

THOMAS:
I really like the name »Huberbuam«. It fits us perfectly. I don’t think anyone uses the name these days thinking of two young kids. The name is associated with two mid-age brothers from Bavaria that have long hair. Our name has indeed become something like a brand.

Alexander, where do you see yourself in 10 years?

ALEXANDER:
No idea. I don’t spend much time thinking about that. What I am relatively certain about is that I will be a passionate alpinist. The rest, we will see. At 44, I am a living fossil among climbers, but the joy I feel remains the same. And looking at my dad, I see plenty of reasons to keep climbing.

You are at the forefront of alpinism. How does a successful mountaineer and climber deal with getting older? Do you train more? Does experience help to compensate a lack of fitness?

THOMAS:
Getting older is a process, towards which one can have a positive attitude. We can no longer keep up with today’s young sport climbers - even if we trained like madmen, there is no way around that. But that doesn’t mean that we have to quit now. Is only a world class achievement worth even trying? I still enjoy training and climbing a lot. When things aren’t going well, I can get pretty annoyed, which means that I still care. I am an alpinist and climber, plain and simple. I would never quit because of a lack of fitness. (Laughs) Even if you could call our current sport climbing performance »old-men-climbing«, we are still managing to use our skills to be successful, like on Baffin Island for example. What is a success? In a competition, it is simple: the best one that day wins. But alpinism is not a competition. There are many more factors that decide. Maybe it is this mix that makes us successful, so to speak: The experience after thousands of meters of climbing, the curiosity to try something new, the motivation to train, the courage to fail and the joy of simple living. We have all that.

The movie »To The Limit« in 2007, was that the one role that changed everything?

ALEXANDER:
People often claim that the movie »To the Limit« was our break-through. To a certain extent, that is certainly true. On the other hand, a certain fame was necessary for such a movie production to even be considered. That’s why I prefer saying that the movie »To The Limit« helped us on our way. For me personally, the events surrounding the movie were an amazing experience.

Does Thomas Huber have fear of what lies ahead? Or asked the other way around: Are you so popular by now, that you can live off of slide shows in the long run? Are you some sort of Reinhold Messner package?

THOMAS:
We simply enjoy creating and giving slide shows. I am sure we can continue to do that. That certainly does not make us »Messners«. Reinhold is, and will always be, unique. We just had the chance to achieve something as the Huberbuam that we are. Maybe it could be summed up like this:
I was an alpinist thus far, and I want to be part of the future as an alpinist as well. I thus look forward to the tasks that lie ahead, without needing to know what exactly they will look like. Isn’t it that what makes life exciting? I have everything I need: a healthy family, a brother that is my climbing partner, a healthy body and mind, and the same curiosity than the little Huber kid had back then.

In what way has your life changed since you became the father of two children? Has Alexander Huber become more mellow?

ALEXANDER:
I am more mellow for sure. Or at least, I am not as exclusively focused on rock climbing and alpinism. This is also a natural consequence of a life with slide shows and other tasks that keep getting more. I think it also has to do with age, that one starts to be more relaxed. And I admit: After reaching a goal on an expedition, I definitely like to head home sooner than in the old days.

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MENTAL STRENGTH

What is the strongest muscle worth if you are mentally not ready. Climbing is unique sport:

Strength, flexibilty, physique - that is only one requirement to be at the top level. Only mental strength is capable to make the best use of the physical strength.

1. My mental base: »I feel light, I am looking forward to what lies ahead. Yes, I want to do this«

2. My mental training: Every move, every movement on the rock is visualised.

3. My mental modus operandi: take a deep breath, and it’s on… thinking stops, and executing the moves begins. I become one with my task. If everything goes well, I reach my goal.

4. My mental finishing: be kind to yourself, cheers!

PASSION FOR MUSIC

I like everything related to honest music. Whether it is folk at an
alp in Berchtesgaden, Electronic music or hard guitar rock.

I am fascinated by the music of Johnny Cash, Jack White, and everything that has to do with Stoner Rock, especially Kyuss, Truckfighters, and the Queens of the Stone Age. With our band, Plastic Surgery Disaster, that is our style, and we try to pursue our passion for Stoner Rock. Music can be like climbing: if the moment is right, the experience is incredible!

TRAINING

Training is fun, especially in our own little room. I used to train in the gym, but now I only do climbing specific exercises.

I almost exclusively train on my own boulder- and system-wall as well as on the campus board and the bachar ladder. With a bit of discipline, I train everything relevant for climbing.

Still, the most important training session is the period of rest. And this time is changing with age: I used to do a 2:1 rhythm, that is two days of climbing and one of rest. Today, with a slower metabolism, I am much better off with a 1:1 rhythm, one day of climbing followed by a day of rest.

I work on my general fitness by doing long hikes or mountain runs at home - simply everything that is fun.

MY TATOO

I found the inspiration for my tatoo at a temple on a street in India. I took a photo of a mystical blue painting of the Indian God Shiva on its wall.

Lord Shiva, a warrior, is the God of transcendence, destruction, and renewing in Indian mythology. This is the meaning of life for me: »Be an aware human being, you are born to die. Live every moment of your life!«

This tatoo has no religious meaning to me, but a philosophical one.

GEAR

A climber and his gear are a team on the mountain. We usually always know what has to be use when, how and where in order to make the adventure »safe«.

What is important - no matter what company made the gear - is that a climber knows his gear and how it works. Even at a tricky spot, I know that a certain placement takes the »green Totem cam« and that it’s on the left side of my harness.

I trust my equipment completely. When the choice of gear is right, and you are mentally and physically in perfect shape, the summit is not so far away anymore!

INJURIES

Injuries have been a part of my life since I was 22. Slipped disk, elbow luxation, compartment syndrome, cruciate ligament rupture, biceps- and shoulder tendon tear, adductor tendon rupture, etc.

This certainly hindered my progression as an athlete, but these lows helped me grow as a person. I have the heart of a fighter - »Now more than ever!« Giving up was never an option.

The following metaphor became my motto: »It’s only in the valley that you realise how amazing the mountains really are!«

Questions to Thomas Huber

  • Questions to Thomas Huber

    4:45 Min.

    Questions to Thomas Huber

About me

PHYSICIST AND PROFESSIONAL ALPINIST

Alexander Huber, who is a UIAGM mountain guide, decided to abandon his scientific career in 1998 and to pursue an unknown path in the mountains instead.

All facets of mountaineering and rock climbing all over the world, that is his greatest passion, and together with his brother Thomas, they form one of the most successful rope parties of our time.

5.15a sport climbs, Bellavista, the first multi-pitch climb on an alpine wall with difficulties of 5.14b, new free routes and speed records on El Capitan in Yosemite, the first free ascent of the legendary Eternal Flame on Nameless Tower, the first ascent of the west face of Latok II (7.108m) and the free solo ascent of the Direttissima on Cima Grande are the most important events of his climbing life.

Moreover, like his brother Thomas, Alexander is a successful public speaker and author. Apart from six books that were translated in four languages, he has held more than 1000 slideshows that inspire the audience world wide. Because of their alpine successes, but also because of the numerous articles and covers that featured them, the brothers are among the most successful mountaineers today.

They have not only reached an audience of climbers, but also a more general public. They were featured in numerous articles in famous German magazines and newspapers, like the Spiegel, the Stern, the Sueddeutsche Zeitung, and the Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung . They also made appearances in popular TV programs like TV Total, Mittagsmagazin, or Markus Lanz.

In 2007, the Film To the Limit had its theatrical release. It was awarded with the Bavarian Film Award and the German Camera Award. In July 2008, Thomas and Alexander were awarded the Bavarian Sports Award.

 

PUSHING THE LIMITS IN THE MOUNTAINS

Alexander is born on December 30, 1968, in Trostberg in Bavaria. He is the second of three children of Thomas and Maria Huber. From a young age, their parents take the children to the mountains, and it is mainly their dad, who is known in the climbing scene for fast and early ascents of classics such as the Droites North Face, that is responsible for the extreme alpinism they pursue.

With their dad, they make several trips to the Western Alps, and summit no less than 30 four-thousanders. From age 15 on, he mostly climbs with his brother Thomas, laying the foundation for their further development as the Huberbuam. The UIAGM mountain guide and physics graduate is among the most successful and well-rounded alpinists in the world.

Alexander first becomes better known when he climbs extremely hard sport routes. He is the first climber to achieve the grade of 5.15a by doing the first ascents of Weisse Rose and Open Air (9a+/XI+/5.15a). Moreover he does the first redpoint ascent of the legendary Salathé Wall on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley. He has since also freed the Zodiac and established five more free routes on El Cap, and is considered one of the leading figures of the free climbing movement on big walls.

In 1997, he leads an expedition to the Karakoram mountains where they achieve the first ascent of the west face of Latok II (7.108m). Alexander and his team are the first to take big wall climbing strategies to such altitudes, and thus to the highest peaks of the world. A year later, he summits Cho Oyu, the sixth highest mountain on Earth. He has also been on top of famous peaks like Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy in Patagonia.

In late 2008, the Huberbuam summit the Ulvetanna, the hardest mountain in Antarctica; and by doing the first ascent of the west face of Holtanna, they also put up the hardest route on the frozen continent. Other highlights of their career are the first free ascent of Eternal Flame on Nameless Tower (6251m) in August 2009, and a team free ascent of the Bavarian Direct (5.13c) on Mount Asgard in 2012.

In Winter 2000, he solos the first ascent of a route that climbs the huge stepped roof on the north face of Cima Ovest, and a year later, he redpoints the same route, Bellavista (XI-/5.14b), thereby creating a route in a league with the hardest big wall rock climbs in the world.. He continues establishing similar routes: Panaroma (XI-/5.14b) through the same roof in 2007, and in 2012, Nirwana (5.14c/XI-) on the Sonnwendwand at the Lofer Alm.

It is also on Tre Cime that Alexander free solos the notoriously loose Direttissima (5.12a/VIII+) on Cima Grande, and two years later, he pushes the limits yet again with a ropeless ascent of Kommunist (5.14a/X+), the only route of its grade that has ever been free soloed. In 2008, he achieves the first free solo ascent of Grand Capucin, the most difficult summit of the Alps.

In the Mont-Blanc-Massif - the place where alpinism was born more than 300 years ago - some of the most attractive alpine climbing challenges are found even today. Alexander seeks and finds his own goals with a free solo ascent of the South Face of Dent du Géant and the first redpoint ascent of the Voie Petit (8b/5.13d) on Grand Capucin. The Voie Petit remains the hardest climb in the »Playground of Europe«.

Alexander and Thomas are extremely well-rounded alpinists, and this is what enables them to be one of the fastest parties in the world. The Huberbuam are currently holding the speed record on the Zodiac with a time of 1:51:34. This is the fastest time on any grade VI big wall on El Capitan. In 2007 and 2008 they held the record on the Nose, the most famous rock climb on Earth, with a time of 2:45:45.

Their attempts to break the record of the Nose were documented in the movie »To the Limit«.

Vita

1968

Born on December 30, in Trostberg/Bavaria

1981

First Four-Thousander: Allalinhorn, Wallis Alps

1982

First rock climb, Alte Westwand on Kleiner Watzmann, Berchtesgaden Alps

1984

First alpine first ascent: Raunachtstanz (VI+/6a+) on Wagendrischlhorn, Berchtesgaden Alps

1986

First ascent of Utopia (VIII+/7a+) on the Wartsteinwand, Berchtesgaden Alps

1988

High school graduation

First ascent of Vom Winde verweht (X-/8a+) on Scharnstein, Berchtesgaden Alps

1989

First ascent of Turkey (X+/8b+) in Karlstein

First ascent of Scaramouche (X-/8a) on Hoher Göll, Berchtesgaden Alps

Civilian service at the Red Cross from 1989 to 1990

1990

First ascent of Soulrider (X/8b) on Wartstein, Berchtesgaden Alps

1991

First ascent of Shogun (XI-/8c) in Karlstein

1992

Mountain guide training finished

First ascent of Om (XI/9a) in the Endstal, Berchtesgaden Alps

1994

First ascent of Weiße Rose (XI/9a+), Schleierwasserfall, Tirol

1995

First professional presentations

First redpoint ascent of the Salathé Wall (5.13b/8a+) on El Capitan, California

1996

First ascent of Open Air (XI+/9a+) at Schleierwasserfall, Tirol

1997

University graduation with a degree in physics

Assistant on the Institute for Theoretical Meteorology at the Ludwigs-Maximilians-Universität München

First ascent of the west face of Latok II, 7.108 meters, in the Karakoram, Pakistan

1998

Ascent of Cho Oyu, 8.201 meters, Himalaya, Tibet

First ascent of El Nino (5.13c/8a+) on El Capitan, Yosemite, California

First ascent of Free Rider (5.12d/7c+) on El Capitan, Yosemite, California

2000

First ascent of Golden Gate (5.13a/8a)

2001

First ascent of Bellavista (XI-/8c) on the north face of Cima Ovest, Dolomites, South Tyrol

First ascent of El Corazon (5.13b/8a+) on El Capitan, Yosemite, California

2002

Ascents of Cerro Torre, Fitz Roy and Cerro Standhardt, Patagonia

Free Solo Ascent of the Direttissima on the North Face of Cima Grande, Dolomites, South Tyrol

2003

First redpoint ascent of the Free Zodiac (5.13d/8b+) on El Capitan, Yosemite, California

2004

Free-Solo-Ascent of Kommunist (X+/8b+) at Schleierwasserfall, Tyrol

Speed record of the Zodiac in 1:51,34 hours, El Capitan, Yosemite, California

2005

First redpoint ascent of Voie Petite (X/8b) on Grand Capucin, Montblanc, France

2006

First ascent of Golden Eagle on the Desmochada, Patagonia

Free-Solo-ascent of Dent du Géant south face (VII+/6b+), Montblanc, Italy

2007

First ascent of Pan Aroma (XI-/8c) on the north face of Cima Ovest, Dolomites, South Tyrol.

Speed record on the Nose in 2:45,45 (until July 2008) on El Capitan, Yosemite, California

2008

First ascent of El Bastardo on the Silla, Patagonia

First Free-Solo-Ascent of Grand Capucin (VII+/6b+), Montblanc, France

Free-Solo-Ascent of Locker vom Hocker (VIII/7a+) on Schüsselkarspitze, Wetterstein, Tyrol

First ascent of the north buttress and the west face of Holtanna and the west buttress of Ulvetanna, Antarctica.

2009

First redpoint ascent of Eternal Flame (5.13a/8a) on Nameless Tower, 6.251m, Karakoram, Pakistan

2012

First redpoint ascent of Free Bavarian Direct (5.13b/8a+) on Mount Asgard, Baffin Island, Canada

First ascent of Nirwana (XI-/8c+) on the Sonnwendwand, Tyrol

Tick List

1992
TRIANGEL
Om, 9a – 1st ascent
1994
SCHLEIER
Weiße Rose, 9a – 1st ascent
1995
EL CAPITAN
Salathé, 5.13b – 1st redpoint ascent
1996
SCHLEIER
Open Air, 9a+ – 1st ascent
1997
LATOK II, 7.108 m
Westface, 6c/A3+ – 1st ascent
1998
CHO OYU, 8.201 m
Dir. NW-Route, up to 55° – regular ascent
EL CAPITAN
El Niño, 5.13b – 1st ascent
EL CAPITAN
Free Rider, 5.12d – 1st redpoint ascent
2000
EL CAPITAN
Golden Gate, 5.13a – 1st ascent
2001
CIMA OVEST
Bellavista, 8c – 1st redpoint
EL CAPITAN
El Corazon, 5.13b – 1st ascent
2002
CERRO TORRE
Compressor Route, V/A1 – regular ascent
FITZ ROY
Franco-Argentina, 6b – redpoint ascent
CERRO STANDHARDT
Exocet, 6a/90° – winter ascent
CIMA GRANDE
Direttissima, 7a+ – first free solo ascent
2003
EL CAPITAN
Zodiac, 5.13d – 1st redpoint ascent
2004
SCHLEIER
Kommunist, 8b+ – first free solo ascent
EL CAPITAN
Zodiac, A2+/5.8 – speed record in 1:51,34 hours
2005
GRAND CAPUCIN
Voie Petit, 8b – 1st redpoint ascent
2006
DESMOCHADA
Golden Eagle, 5.11/A1 – 1st ascent
DENT DU GEANT
South Face, 6c – first free solo ascent
2007
CIMA OVEST
Pan Aroma, 8c – 1st ascent
EL CAPITAN
Nose, 5.9/A1 – speed record in 2:45,45 hours
2008
LA SILLA
Westface, 5.11/A1 – 1st ascent
SONNWENDWAND
Feuertaufe, 8b+ – 1st ascent
GRAND CAPUCIN
Swiss Route, 6b – 1st free solo ascent
SCHÜSSELKARSPITZE
Locker vom Hocker, 7a – free solo ascent
HOLTANNA
West Face, 5.10+/A4 – 1st ascent
HOLTANNA
North Buttress, 5.10 – 1st ascent, 1st free ascent
ULVETANNA
Northwest Buttress, 5.11a/A2 – 1st ascent
2009
MALLO PISON
Murciana, 6c – first free solo ascent
NAMELESS TOWER, 6.251 m
Eternal Flame, 5.13a – 1st redpoint ascent
2010
SONNWENDWAND
Donnervogel, 8b – 1st redpoint ascent
2012
MOUNT ASGARD
Bavarian Direct, 5.13b – 1st free ascent
SONNWENDWAND
Nirwana, 8c+ – 1st redpoint ascent

Films, Books & Co.

Books

Der Weg nach draußen –
Aus der Halle ins Gebirge

Hardcover, 192 pages

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Die Angst, dein bester Freund

Paperback, 192 pages

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Eiszeit – Expedition Antarktis

Coffee-table book, 160 pages

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Free Solo

Paperback, 208 pages

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Der Berg in mir

Paperback, 320 pages

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Drei Zinnen

Coffee-table book, 156 pages

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Ogre

Coffee-table book, 176 pages

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Yosemite

Coffee-table book, 176 pages

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The Wall

Coffee-Table Book, 128 pages

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Books in our Online-Shop

 

Films

Bavarian Direct – Abenteuer am Ende der Welt

DVD (2013), Duration: 75 minutes

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Eternal Flame - Auf den Spuren von Idolen

DVD (2009), Duration: 70 minutes

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Eiszeit – Reflexion einer Expedition

DVD (2008), Duration: 52 minutes

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Am Limit

DVD (2007), Duration: 96 minutes

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Free Solo

DVD (2007), Duration: 53 minutes

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Getschooo !

DVD (2007), Duration: 75 minutes

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The Centre of the Universe

DVD (2005), Duration: 54 minutes

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Films in our Online-Shop

10 Questions

Dies ist ein nicht allzulange Frage?

Omnis evenimilique vername sintisci sequamus essitatin et magnamus ea vidi dolorem porendaeped qui vero iundit aut offici delestiusam nonsequas.

 

Dies ist eine längere Frage, die locker auch mal in die nächste
Zeile rutschen kann oder gar noch länger wird?

Omnis evenimilique vername sintisci sequamus essitatin et magnamus ea vidi dolorem porendaeped qui vero iundit aut offici delestiusam nonsequas.

 

Dies ist eine kurze Frage?

Omnis evenimilique vername sintisci sequamus essitatin.

 

Dies ist eine längere Frage, die locker auch mal in die nächste
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Omnis evenimilique vername sintisci sequamus essitatin.

Interviews

JOHANNA STOECKL INTERVIEWS THE HUBERBUAM



»WE ARE LIVING FOSSILS«

Rock climbers Thomas (46) and Alexander (44) form the probably most famous rope party of our time. The Huberbuam - this is the name under which the brothers are best known - have been successful for over thirty years. They set milestones with solo ascents and with other partners as well. In summer 2012, the Huberbuam were successful yet again: They did the first free ascent of the 1000-meter-south-face of Mount Asgard on Baffin Island. A camera team accompanied the two brothers. The movie they made can be purchased online. Johanna Stöckl talked to the friendly mountaineers. A conversation about getting old, losing power, fear of what lies ahead, vision and long hair as a trade mark.


Thomas, at what age did you reach the apex of your climbing abilities?

THOMAS:
That’s a tough question, because the stuff that we do cannot be reduced to a single discipline. As far as rock climbing goes, the hardest thing I’ve climbed - grade-wise - was an 8c+(5.14c).
And I was already 35 then. Before that, I was often stopped by injuries. When I was 21, I had a slipped disk - that alone set me back an entire year at least.
For me, or rather for us, climbing was always a mixture of alpinism and sport climbing, and thus I never really reached the apex. I think that if I trained a bit more, I could still climb 8c+ today. Maybe even a little harder? Compared to twenty years ago, the top level lies somewhere entirely different. As far as alpinism is concerned, the highlight of my life was probably in 2001, with the first ascent of Ogre III and, two weeks later, the second ascent of the Ogre. Or maybe in 1997 on the Latok II south face or on Mount Asgard in 2012? Every big success was a highlight in my climbing life, because I gave 110% every time.

What was - in retrospect - your biggest climbing achievement?


ALEXANDER:
As a sport climber, I had the highest level in 1994, no doubt. With Weiße Rose, I became the first person to climb 5.15a. Even if I did it again in 1996 with Open Air, I was stronger overall two years before. (Laughs) After that, things went downhill. One reason certainly was my age, at 28, you no longer have the same power potential, and another reason was, that I focused on different things after that. I wanted to use my free climbing skills on the world’s big walls. This is what I’m still doing now. Choosing a »biggest« achievement in such a wide field of activities is impossible for me. If I can list more than one highlight, then I would say climbing 5.15 sport, the west face of the seven-thousand-meter-peak Latok II, the free ascent of the Direttissima, the free routes on El Capitan and those through the big roof on Cima Ovest, and at the end the first redpoint ascent of Eternal Flame. I can’t leave even one out, because each one is so different from the other.

Thomas, in 2011 you were diagnosed with a benign renal tumor, which was removed. It must be special to be able to go on expeditions again. Did this event have an influence on you?

THOMAS:
It gave me a lot of strength, and put everything in my life into perspective. What’s a summit compared to a life? Since then, I see everything a bit different, I am more relaxed indeed. I accept failures as parts of life and they help me to be motivated to take the next step. You know when you stood in front of that sort of abyss, and then have the luck that I had, the only thing you can really say is: Life is simply beautiful, and I am privileged to enjoy as an alpinist.

Alexander, when you see today’s generation of climbers, like David Lama, or Adam Ondra, what do you feel? Admiration? Nostalgia? Happiness?

ALEXANDER:
Mostly, I have a lot of respect. Of course, I would enjoy pulling down like the kids today. But I’ve had my time, and I am more than happy about what I had: a really awesome time!
I am especially happy that climbing is still evolving and has not gone into a cul-de-sack. The only way for a sport to stay interesting is when there is a way forward. The mountains will offer challenges for many generations to come. I am happy about everything I can still witness.

Being a »Huberbua« (»Huber kid«) at the age of 44 and 46 respectively must be quite nice, no? Does your name provide some sort of eternal youth?

THOMAS:
I really like the name »Huberbuam«. It fits us perfectly. I don’t think anyone uses the name these days thinking of two young kids. The name is associated with two mid-age brothers from Bavaria that have long hair. Our name has indeed become something like a brand.

Alexander, where do you see yourself in 10 years?

ALEXANDER:
No idea. I don’t spend much time thinking about that. What I am relatively certain about is that I will be a passionate alpinist. The rest, we will see. At 44, I am a living fossil among climbers, but the joy I feel remains the same. And looking at my dad, I see plenty of reasons to keep climbing.

You are at the forefront of alpinism. How does a successful mountaineer and climber deal with getting older? Do you train more? Does experience help to compensate a lack of fitness?

THOMAS:
Getting older is a process, towards which one can have a positive attitude. We can no longer keep up with today’s young sport climbers - even if we trained like madmen, there is no way around that. But that doesn’t mean that we have to quit now. Is only a world class achievement worth even trying? I still enjoy training and climbing a lot. When things aren’t going well, I can get pretty annoyed, which means that I still care. I am an alpinist and climber, plain and simple. I would never quit because of a lack of fitness. (Laughs) Even if you could call our current sport climbing performance »old-men-climbing«, we are still managing to use our skills to be successful, like on Baffin Island for example. What is a success? In a competition, it is simple: the best one that day wins. But alpinism is not a competition. There are many more factors that decide. Maybe it is this mix that makes us successful, so to speak: The experience after thousands of meters of climbing, the curiosity to try something new, the motivation to train, the courage to fail and the joy of simple living. We have all that.

The movie »To The Limit« in 2007, was that the one role that changed everything?

ALEXANDER:
People often claim that the movie »To the Limit« was our break-through. To a certain extent, that is certainly true. On the other hand, a certain fame was necessary for such a movie production to even be considered. That’s why I prefer saying that the movie »To The Limit« helped us on our way. For me personally, the events surrounding the movie were an amazing experience.

Does Thomas Huber have fear of what lies ahead? Or asked the other way around: Are you so popular by now, that you can live off of slide shows in the long run? Are you some sort of Reinhold Messner package?

THOMAS:
We simply enjoy creating and giving slide shows. I am sure we can continue to do that. That certainly does not make us »Messners«. Reinhold is, and will always be, unique. We just had the chance to achieve something as the Huberbuam that we are. Maybe it could be summed up like this:
I was an alpinist thus far, and I want to be part of the future as an alpinist as well. I thus look forward to the tasks that lie ahead, without needing to know what exactly they will look like. Isn’t it that what makes life exciting? I have everything I need: a healthy family, a brother that is my climbing partner, a healthy body and mind, and the same curiosity than the little Huber kid had back then.

In what way has your life changed since you became the father of two children? Has Alexander Huber become more mellow?

ALEXANDER:
I am more mellow for sure. Or at least, I am not as exclusively focused on rock climbing and alpinism. This is also a natural consequence of a life with slide shows and other tasks that keep getting more. I think it also has to do with age, that one starts to be more relaxed. And I admit: After reaching a goal on an expedition, I definitely like to head home sooner than in the old days.

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LONG HAIR

We still have long hair. It’s been 30 years by now.

In fact, I have been waiting for a while for the time in which the question of long or short hair gets decided without me thinking about it. And indeed, they do get less, and here and there there is a grey one. Let’s see what the future will bring...

SHIRTLESS

Climbing without a shirt on rock has nothing to do with show.

Climbing can be strenuous and when it’s warm, it’s best to climb topless, because even when speed climbing, we do not have head wind ;-)

PASSION

The passion and enthusiasm for what you do is crucial in order to experience special moments.

(MUSCLE-)STRENGTH

...no pain, no gain. Especially as members of the old-men-team it’s important to train hard in order to maintain a decent level.

When it comes to pure muscle power, despite training, we have not been at the top level for a long time. We can compensate the decreasing strength with experience, tactical instinct, intelligent goals, and the right visionary force.

OUR TOOLS

When you’re holding onto your life with just your fingertips, you need 100% confidence in your body, your abilities and your mental skills. A healthy mind needs a healthy body to rely on.

This is why we have to treat our bodies accordingly; everything has to be right prior to going to our limits. Our hands obviously play an important role, but in the end our bodies and minds as a whole count, as even a tiny injury on an apparently unimportant body-part can mean »game over«.

CLOTHING

When climbing, the clothing should be as light and casual as possible. Weight matters because every gram I carry has to go up with me.

Compared to the old days, when the pioneers were climbing with nail boots, cotton pants and hemp ropes - still managing great ascents - things are easier today with modern gear.

Questions to Alexander Huber

  • Questions to Alexander Huber

    4:43 Min.

    Questions to Alexander Huber

Thomas and Alexander Huber are an extraordinary team. Each one of them is among the best alpinists in the world, together, they are one of the strongest rope parties of our time.

The similarities are obvious. Having grown up together as brothers, they share the same roots and the many adventures they had together. Both are extremely motivated athletes. They both achieved great success on their own, but they are particularly proud of the goals they reached together:

What sets the Huberbuam’s successes apart is not the pure difficulty of their accomplishments, it is the vision they have for their sport. The brain is the climber’s most important muscle - what’s the strongest biceps if you lack vision? Only the visionary has the skill to develop new ideas, the incentive to follow these dreams, and the will to take alpinism further.

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